Then there was the late afternoon after work when I leaned out my third floor apartment window and watched Renee Zellwegger (who truly is beautiful up close) film scenes from her upcoming movie, My One And Only: otherwise, Baltimore scared the freakin’ shit out of me.
It wasn’t supposed to be that way; having spent considerable time in New York (where I felt very safe, even as a visitor), I assumed that the nation’s 18th largest metro area would have its own considerable charm and bustle (after all, they do call Baltimore, perhaps sarcastically, “Charm City”). I imagined crowded sidewalks day and night, well-dressed and beautiful people, the coolest clubs and best restaurants, and more cultural opportunities than I could possibly fit into my schedule. Instead, I found mentally ill and homeless folks talking to ghosts on West Baltimore Street, clouds of stinking steam on Fayette Street, and a city that turned into a ghost town once the commuters lit out for the ‘burbs at five o’clock sharp. Don’t get me wrong: there are a lot of things to like about Baltimore (architecture, some good people making a life in the city proper, a sense of tolerance, some great restaurants and pubs). But the fact remains that you can live in a good neighborhood and walk a single block away and find yourself in a war zone, dodging heroin and crack dealers who ask, unsolicited, “You ready?” (ready somehow being slang for crack cocaine).
Yeah, I did a little wandering (and biking) around–even late at night. I thought I would get to know Baltimore, both good and bad, and write about it as writers have always written about the city in which they live (see Hemingway, A Moveable Feast). I had waited a long time to live in a city, and I intended to make the most of my time. After all, Scott Fitzgerald once lived there. He didn’t write about being scared of Baltimore.
I was lucky. I had a great (and rather expensive) apartment only four blocks or so from Camden Yards (I could see the ballpark if I leaned out my west-facing windows and looked south). I could walk or bike the eight blocks or so to work on Calvert Street. The Inner Harbor was only a few moments away. Federal Hill, across the harbor, was an easy bike ride away and worth it for the view of the city. It should have been, by all rights, wonderful.
But for starters, I was lonely. Very lonely. And aside from the opportunists and wrong sort of people (who, you know, the ones who wanted to sell me something…and I wasn‘t buying), there didn’t seem to be anyone to talk with. Actually, I don’t think I’ve ever been more lonely in my life. I was so very naïve: I imagined that I would first fall in love with the city, and then meet someone and really fall in love. The problem was that there didn’t seem to be anyone to fall in love with–and if so, they lived in the ‘burbs and I lived in the city without a car (having totaled my leased Eclipse convertible falling asleep at the wheel in Lexington a few months before I moved).
So, the great Baltimore experiment ended too soon, and ended badly. I became seriously ill, and with my last bit of strength booked a flight to Lex, hauled myself and a single suitcase to the train, and somehow made it to the airport. Even now, I’m not really sure how I managed to change planes in Charlotte, but I’ll always remember the final descent into Lexington, the tears upon seeing the familiar horse farms and knowing that my boys were now only a few miles away. I knew that I had a lot of work to do…but I also knew, for a while at least, that I was coming home.
Then there was the late afternoon after work when I leaned out my third floor apartment window and watched Renee Zellwegger (who truly is beautiful up close) film scenes from her upcoming movie, My One And Only: otherwise, Baltimore scared the freakin’ shit out of me.
It wasn’t supposed to be that way; having spent considerable time in New York (where I felt very safe, even as a visitor), I assumed that the nation’s 18th largest metro area would have its own considerable charm and bustle (after all, they do call Baltimore, perhaps sarcastically, “Charm City”). I imagined crowded sidewalks day and night, well-dressed and beautiful people, the coolest clubs and best restaurants, and more cultural opportunities than I could possibly fit into my schedule. Instead, I found mentally ill and homeless folks talking to ghosts on West Baltimore Street, clouds of stinking steam on Fayette Street, and a city that turned into a ghost town once the commuters lit out for the ‘burbs at five o’clock sharp. Don’t get me wrong: there are a lot of things to like about Baltimore (architecture, some good people making a life in the city proper, a sense of tolerance, diversity, some great restaurants and pubs). But the fact remains that you can live in a good neighborhood and walk a single block away and find yourself in a war zone, dodging heroin and crack dealers who ask, unsolicited, “You ready?” (ready somehow being slang for crack cocaine).
Yeah, I did a little wandering (and biking) around–even late at night. After all, I never sleep. I thought I would get to know Baltimore, both good and bad, and write about it as writers have always written about the city in which they live (see Hemingway, A Moveable Feast). I had waited a long time to live in a city, and I intended to make the most of my time. After all, Scott Fitzgerald once lived there, and not that far from my apartment. He didn’t write about being scared of Baltimore.
This circus is falling down on its knees
The big top is crumbling down
Its raining in Baltimore fifty miles east
Where you should be, no ones around
I was lucky. I had a great (and rather expensive) apartment only four blocks or so from Camden Yards (I could see the ballpark if I leaned out my west-facing windows and looked south). I could walk or bike the eight blocks or so to work on Calvert Street. The Inner Harbor was only a few moments away. Federal Hill, across the harbor, was an easy bike ride away and worth it for the view of the city. It should have been, by all rights, wonderful.
But for starters, I was lonely. Very lonely. And aside from the opportunists and wrong sort of people (who, you know, only wanted to sell me something…and I wasn‘t buying), there didn’t seem to be anyone to talk with. Actually, I don’t think I’ve ever been more lonely in my life. I was so very naïve: I imagined that I would first fall in love with the city, and then meet someone and really fall in love. The problem was that there didn’t seem to be anyone to fall in love with–and if so, they lived in the ‘burbs and I lived in the city without a car (having totaled my leased Eclipse convertible by falling asleep at the wheel in Lexington a few months before I moved).
There’s things I remember and things I forget
I miss you; I guess that I should
Three thousand five hundred miles away
But what would you change if you could?
So, the great Baltimore experiment ended too soon, and ended badly. I became seriously ill, and with my last bit of strength booked a flight to Lex, hauled myself and a single suitcase to the train, and somehow made it to the airport. Even now, I’m not really sure how I managed to change planes in Charlotte, but I’ll always remember the final descent into Lexington, the tears upon seeing the familiar horse farms and knowing that my boys were now only a few miles away. I knew that I had a lot of work to do…but I also knew, for a little while at least, that I was coming home.